Heated windshield washer nozzle (Left, Right) Stop lamp switch (Stop lamps, Trailer stop lamps, Center high-mounted stop lamp, Traction system control module) Garage door opening signal (170 545 (10, 20, 22, 28) 00)Īutomatic heater: (Circulated air valve Automatic heater)Īir conditioning (Tempmatic): (Electric suction-type fan control module, Recirculated air valve)Īir conditioning (Automatic): (Electric suction-type fan control module)Ĭontrol unit-automatic child seat recognition system The light module is located on the driver’s side of the dash panel. Otherwise, components or systems could be damaged. Only use fuses that have been approved for Mercedes-Benz vehicles and which have the correct fuse rating for the system concerned.There is a risk of an accident and injury. If you manipulate or bridge a faulty fuse or if you replace it with a fuse with a higher amperage, the electric cables could be overloaded. Always replace faulty fuses with the specified new fuses having the correct amperage.Always disconnect the battery before servicing high current fuses.Before changing a fuse, secure the vehicle against rolling away and switch off all electrical consumers.Can anybody point me in the right direction to test the fuel pump without getting under the car and removing the cover? If I knew which wire supplies the pump from the K40 unit I could simply jump a 12v feed to see if the pump operates. The soldering on the K40 circuit board looks absolutely fine by the way. I'm guessing that the fuel pump should be operated by the closing of one of these sets of contacts, but which one? I believe that the pump only runs for the first 2 seconds after switching on, or when the starter motor is running, shouldn't I be able to observe the relevant contacts closing under those conditions? Manually closing the contacts on number 1 operates what sounds like a fan motor, and doing the same on number 5 operates the horn. Turning the key to the second (start) position has no further effect, so the contacts on coils 1,2 and 5 remain open. When I turn the key to the first position (ignition on) the contacts on coils 3 and 4 close (counting from the left, ie. I have uncovered the K40 relay thanks to Bazzle's post, but I'm not sure which of the 5 coils supplies power to the pump. I haven't yet taken the plastic cover off the pump to test it because that looks an arkward job. I always tell other people to take a logical approach to problem solving rather than replacing parts until the problem is cured, so I'm ashamed that I didn't follow my own advice!īefore I take off the fuel pump I need to find out if is receiving power. (I was fooled into thinking that the fuel system was ok because engine started the first time I tried it and ran for a short time, presumably because there was some residual fuel pressure in the system). I replaced the crank sensor but stupidly didn't bother to check for fuel pressure first, and I now realise that the car won't start because the fuel pump doesn't run, not because the CPS was faulty. I have a 2002 SLK 320 which has been standing for some months and now will crank but won't start.
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